We’re back, back from an almost 7,000 km road trip.
Last year we were so enchanted with Newfoundland we decided to return this summer.
More than sixty years ago my husband David spent summers in the Avalon peninsula as a camp counsellor, with many memories of the beauty of that area, he wished to share them with me.
Rental cars are few and far between on the Rock and often booked a year or more in advance, so we’d take our car. For us this road trip was an ambitious plan, and our family worried it might be too much for an aging couple.
We planned well, booked Airbnb’s, a 16-hour overnight ferry crossing to Argentia and hotels along the route. We chose places where friends we had not seen for years lived, so we could have a catch-up visit.
We drove through Ontario to Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick along the TransCanada highway, which after Monreal became lightly travelled and was easy driving to North Sydney to the Marine- Atlantic ferry terminal. In Antigonish we spent the night with David’s niece. A foretaste of beautiful scenery
Of course, there were a few anxious moments like the fact the brand-new boat of the Marine-Atlantic ferry supposed to begin the crossings at the end of May, had not yet ironed out all the trials so constantly updated delayed start dates.
We did not know until the last minute whether it would run on our appointed date. We were fortunate, it did, and we were on the “maiden voyage.” The small, but superbly appointed cabins offered comfort and every modern convenience. The crossing was smooth and uneventful and once we arrived the unloading of hundreds of vehicles, trucks, RV’s boats, bicycles and trailers was professional and well organized.
The scenery was spectacular, cliffs and outcrops of rock, roadsides lined with wild lupins, oxeye daisies and fireweed. The small coves with colourful homes, harbours with fishing boats of all colors and sizes, and the friendliest most welcoming people. The weather was warm and sunny with a strong breeze blowing most of the time.
Some of the place names in Newfoundland are amusing and wonderfully creative. We visited Hearts Delight, Hearts Content, Conception Bay, Come by Chance, and Dildo, to name a few. The first places we stayed were in Bay Roberts, a comparatively big town with a population of almost 12,000. Each day we would go on a jaunt to local sites before moving to our next Airbnb, Pretty’s Ocean View Boathouse, right on the wharf. What a fabulous location, every window with views of the ocean. With a population of under 2,000 of very friendly locals we had landed in the ideal spot.
Dildo was founded in the late 18th century and settled to exploit the abundance of cod fish, whales and seals.
One morning while sitting at breakfast, we noticed a boat docking on the wharf and unloading their catch of the day. Since the cod fishing moratorium was lifted; on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, locals are each allowed to catch a maximum of 5 cod. Many of the locals have their own small fishing hut, dock, with sink and table for filleting the fish with the debris being thrown into the ocean for the seagulls. Some even have tables and chairs set out and their family gathers for dinner in the evening.
The couple on our wharf were Don & Gail Pretty, the brother and sister-in-law of the owner of Pretty’s Ocean View Boathouse, where we were staying. We learned the Pretty family who came here in 1881 is well known in this community. We introduced ourselves and watched them filleting their cod. Don suggested I try, but no way, with skilled speed they worked and then offered us two fillets for dinner.
As a fan of Caudle's Catch seafood at the Cambridge Farmers' Market, each week I buy fresh fish, but never have I eaten fish for dinner that was caught in the morning. It was so good.
The next day, as we thanked them for the delicious meal, they asked if we’d like a boat trip and offered to take us out for a couple of hours. They even supplied an old leather tub chair for me to sit in as we sailed passing Dildo Island, on a clear warm sunny day. We dipped into small coves, saw bald eagles, colourful cliffs and were fascinated by glimpses of the Orca whales breach as they briefly surfaced, quick as lightning, they were difficult to photograph. A much appreciated and unexpected adventure.
I was also impressed by the large number of creative memorials to former residents, in small fishing villages. One spot overlooked a beautiful view, marked by flags blowing in the very constant wind, set up with picnic tables, waste bins and room for visitors to park. Others had benches and small library boxes, all honouring past family members, a lovely idea. There was no vandalism, just respect for the departed. Residents are friendly and when finding out we came from Cambridge, they mentioned they had relatives and friends who lived here.
The various hues within the rock faces from rust and purple, to white, grey and yellow rising above the ocean fascinated me, rock cropping’s everywhere, which is why Newfoundland is referred to as "the rock."
After driving almost 7,000 km, these two road warriors are glad to be back in Cambridge with many wonderful memories of a great and successful trip.
I fully understand why most Newfies feel the call to return home each summer. It’s a wonderful place to visit.
